City of Love

Not really, but read on.

Hue, pronounced “hway,” is Vietnam’s Imperial City.  It was the capital of Vietnam until 1945 when the Ballard Moving and Storage trucks came and loaded ‘er up and took the ol’ capital  on down the road to Hanoi.  Beard and I came into Hue with no real plan other than to make sure we tried some Bun Bo Hue (beef noodle soup dish native to Hue).  I took the advice of some fellow travelers and didn’t book a room ahead of time.  The idea here was that a walk-up rate can oftentimes beat an advertised rate.  This had been an effective strategy for the others and one that as of yet, we had not employed.  Why not give it a go? I’ll tell you why not – because it doesn’t work, you might almost p*ss your pants and wind up with a stalker named Luna chasing after you.  That’s.  Why.

Arriving late at night after a long shuttle from Hoi An, we tried the walk-up approach at a highly rated place I’d found online.  Wouldn’t you know it – NO VACANCY.  F.  IN.  A.  You gotta be kidding me!  Ok, this strategy officially sucks.  Now what?  I gotta go number 1 something fierce after that long ride from Hoi An.  Fierce!  Fortunately, there was a tourist info center across the street.  Maybe they could help me find a place to stay and who knows? maybe some fun things to do.  More importantly, maybe they have a restroom!  Luckily, they did -albeit one I was not supposed to use but whatever.  Details.

We met this girl working there named Luna.  She was named after her favorite… planet – she said.  Hmmmmmm…  I didn’t have the heart to tell her.  Anyway, I started rapping with this gal about food because I’d heard that the food in Hue was really good and, well, I’m generally hungry.  I told her I wanted to try Bun Bo Hue.  She said, “let’s go.”  And like that, she closed the office threw us on the back of her motorbike and we were off to eat the best damn Bun Bo Hue in Hue!

Sadly, the street food vendor that has the best Bun Bo Hue in Hue had already closed her… sidewalk for the night.  We had to settle for the second best.  Here it is!

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Bun Bo Hue

We’ve got some beef shank, ox tail and congealed pig’s blood – that’s right – in there fo sho along with vermicelli and and some onions and herbs.  It was good.  Luna was fairly normal at this point except that she didn’t drink anything with dinner – no water, no beer, nothing.  Maybe this should have tipped me off but at the time, I didn’t think much of it.

I made plans to go on a cave tour way out in the cut the following day but Luna invited me to have dinner with her again so that she could introduce me to a variety of popular dishes from Hue.  Sounded like a good deal to me so I agreed.  Whoops.  More on that later.

I was picked up early the next morning for the Phong Nha Cave tour.  This was a terrible idea.  I was relegated to the shotgun seat and buckled in for a 5-hour drive each way.  The discomfort of the seat was one thing.  Like, I don’t know who normally sits in this seat – maybe people with super short legs like 5-year-olds or midgets or something but it was either a really low seat or high floor.  My knees were into my chest.  You’d think this was bad enough but was made matters that much more unbearable was the driver’s uncontrollable horn usage.  Yes, I get it.  It’s a courtesy and a warning for people that you’re passing to give a shot on the horn.  That’s fine.  However, we were passing people every 5, 10, 30 seconds.  Think about that.  Even if it’s every 30 seconds (generous), for 5 hours each direction that amounts to 1,200 honks of the horn.  AND, this wasn’t just any horn.  No no.  This was the WORST HORN EVER.  Each blast began with a powerful blow to the eardrums and then slowly faded to nothing.  The honks lasted 3 seconds apiece.  That amounts to 60 full minutes of honks during a ten-hour roundtrip.  FML.  Enough about horns.  Here’s some cave porn.

Shotgun view
Shotgun view

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Boat ride to the cave
Boat ride to the cave

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Mouth of the cave
Mouth of the cave

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Gallery

Hoi An

Know what’s the worst?  Never remembering what day it is.  Just kidding.  It’s the best.  This week though, I have to keep my days straight because we’ve got Easter on the horizon and I’ve got to get to church oh yes I do.  Well, not like I’ve done anything wrong or anything.  I’m just saying it’s Easter and though I may have missed a few Sundays here and there since I’ve been onnnnnnn the road again, just can’t wait to get on the road again etc., I am making a point to hit up Easter mass in Hoi An.  Okay, you all just realized how far behind I’ve gotten on this blogging thing.  If you hadn’t realized it… you did now.  It’s hard to blog when you spend as much time eating as I do, my friends.

Back to business – Hoi An is a gem.  I knew nothing about it before I arrived in Vietnam.  Seemingly everyone I met along the way was traveling from north to south while I was going south to north and every one of them recommended Hoi An.  100 strangers can’t be wrong. That is not a scientific fact.  Don’t quote me on that.  It’s not even a good quotable quote, I’m just saying hey, odds are good there’s something to Hoi An.  I excitedly suggested to the Ol’ Crusty Beard Ol’ Boy that we check it out.  He did not respond.  His smugness is so off-putting sometimes.

If you are visiting Vietnam, put Hoi An on the list.  It’s got it all – charm, convenience, beauty, markets, food, shopping, spas, beaches and more food.  Though I did not partake, you can get clothes and shoes made here for next to nothing.  Want to pay $30 for a custom suit.  You can.  Want them to make you some 1986 Jordan’s from scratch for $15 – no problem.  If you want any North Face bags or Ray Bans or Oakleys, Hoi An has got you covered like a pancake at a syrup convention.

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While the Ancient Town part of Hoi An where most of the shops and restaurants are located is only about 8 blocks by 3 blocks, each block looks something like this.  I kid you not, this was all within one block – all custom tailors.

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We didn’t have time for that nonsense.  We were too busy with this:

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$1.20 Beef Pho
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Cao Lau – banh mi that Anthony Bourdain made famous. Fresh vegetables made it

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Grilled clams – $2 during happy hour. I wasn’t convinced when I ordered them but the waitress insisted people come from far and wide for these things. I’m a believer. So. Good. Ngoc Mai Beach Restaurant at An Bang Beach

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Duck soup with broken rice – lights out. $1.80. My favorite food in Hoi An.

 

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Madam Khanh – The Banh Mi Queen
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Her baguette wins.  That sounds weird.

One of the most well-known foods is called a white rose.  It’s basically a steamed rice paper shrimp dumpling with toasted garlic and a sweet dipping sauce that takes an army to make and only one place in town makes them right with the original recipe from ages ago and on and on.  Here it is.  Meh.  Whelming.

The Famous White Roses of  Hoi An
The Famous White Roses of Hoi An

 

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Regardless of the disappointment we felt with the white roses, I would go back to Hoi An in a heartbeat.  The place even had a section of town with NO MOTORBIKES ALLOWED!

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And yes, we even made it to church!  Happy Easter! (belated)

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Hoi An

Hanoi

Don’t write us off yet.  We’re still here; we’ve just been busy, ok?  It happens, you know?  When you’re traveling the globe and such, busy happens, alright?  I guess what we want to know is, even though we’ve been away for a while, can we still be friends?  Good, let’s get back to the action.  Ok, wait.  First, how’ve you been?  How’s the family?  Anything new I should know about?  Cool, now here we go.

I honestly don’t remember where we left off.  Was it with Halong Bay?  I hope so because that’s where I’m picking it back up.

After Halong Bay we headed back to Hanoi for another day or two (who can really keep them all straight?).  Hanoi is the capitol of Vietnam and it’s busy like whoa but not busy like HCMC – it’s a quaint kind of busy.  Make sense?  No, ok.  Let’s look at pictures.

Hanoi Food Tour:

This was not part of the tour, but seriously, what the hell is a pizza cone?  Why have I never heard of this? and why am I only seeing this before I embark on a food tour?  I didn't try one, but have since dreamt about pizza cones on a nightly basis.
This was not part of the tour, but seriously, what the hell is a pizza cone? Why have I never heard of this? and why am I only seeing this before I embark on a food tour? I didn’t try one, but have since dreamt about pizza cones on a nightly basis.

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Beer Corner - a place where you can get a beer for about 25 cents - great for people watching and drinking beer that tastes like it cost 25 cents
Beer Corner – a place where you can get a beer for about 25 cents – great for people watching and drinking beer that tastes like it cost 25 cents

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I also visited the Hanoi Hilton, the lake where John McCain was shot down and uh, the Hanoi Stock Exchange.

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Hanoi Hilton
Hanoi Hilton
American bomber that was shot down during the war
American bomber that was shot down during the war
Ho Truc Bach - Lake where McCain was shot down
Ho Truc Bach – Lake where McCain was shot down

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Told ya
Told ya

I also met a great guy named Trung (pronounced Chung) who was born in Vietnam, then went to school and lived in the US for 15 years.  He only returned to Vietnam a week earlier with plans to start his own business.  Great guy, so I got the whole crew together and we had some delicious fish.  In Hanoi they use a lot of fresh dill.  Who knew?  This was great.

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Cha Ca Thang Long – delish. Go here.
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Only one thing on the menu – this! It’s white fish cooked on the table with green onions and fresh dill

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One of the girls had done some research about bars in the area.  Turns out the owner of a recently opened bar – The Unicorn – had just won an international mixology competition for his Pho cocktail.  It took four bartenders and ten minutes to make it, but in the end it really did taste like Pho!

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Next: Hoi An.  Beard says, “what up?”

Hanoi

Halong Bay

Halong Bay is one of the new 7 natural wonders of the world.  It’s about a 2.5 hour drive from Hanoi.  We signed up for an overnight aboard the old Star Light.  The scenery was unmatched and the accommodations were 5-star.  Literally.  And for some reason Beard and I would up in one of the nicest staterooms (only one of two with a balcony).  We’ll take it!

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Normal room
Normal room

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Our room
Our room

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On the cruise I met some good people from Hong Kong (ex-pats from Canada and the US) who invited me to join them.

From left: Blake, Jen, Hammer, Beard, Gabriela (works in the Austrian Parliament), Nadira, and Billy
From left: Blake, Jen, Hammer, Beard, Gabriela (works in the Austrian Parliament), Nadira, and Billy

Halong Bay is full of over 1,000 of these limestone islands.  Not a bad place for a cruise.

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Did you think we weren’t going to hit a cave while we were here?  Wrong.

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From the mouth of the cave:

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From the mouth of the Beard.  Yes, somehow all of my clothes still fit.

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Kayaking on Halong Bay.  Sounds nice, right?  No, it was not.  I got paired up with this honcho named John from Mauritius.  He went on and on about how he has a kayak at home so he wanted to be in back to steer.  He then proceeded to steer us in a full circle and nearly crash us three times inside of five minutes.  Does Barnum and Bailey have a troupe in Mauritius? because you are a clown, sir.  Fortunately the sights made up for it (though, sadly, we did not see a golden monkey).

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Halong Bay

50 Shades of Beard

Don’ t worry, this is safe for work.  Well, that’s assuming you don’t have rules against beard porn.  If that’s the case, your employer is weird and you should find a new job.

Beard is something of a celebrity here.  He has never in his life garnered such attention and frankly, it’s starting to become quite annoying.  People stop us on the street to pose for pictures.  On tours, while I’m taking photos of places, objects, animals, foods of interest, others are taking pictures of Beard.  He’s such a ham too.  What a clown.

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50 Shades of Beard

Mekong Delta

Ok, well I didn’t win the lottery but no one said this luck thing was going to happen overnight.  Beard is laughing.  Thinks I’m an idiot.  Zip it, fur ball.

You can’t come to Vietnam and not visit the Mekong Delta, right?  I don’t know if that’s true, but we did it.  We headed out on a Homestay (where you stay with a family – kind of like a remote bed and breakfast) tour.  Apart from the long ass drive and the incredibly bumpy roads that were amplified by fact that we were sitting in the back, the barely noticeable a/c, oh and the constant blaring of car and bus horns it was quite a nice drive.  When I say the horn is constant, I’m not kidding.  As a safety precaution and courtesy, every vehicle that is not a motorbike will honk when they are passing someone.  This is to basically say, “move over to the shoulder because if you don’t, you’re going to become part of my tire tread.”  Somehow, this guy managed to sleep.

What a little prince
What a little prince

Want to see some pretty flowers?  Cool, I happen to have some from the Mekong Rest Stop right here!

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On the Delta, we saw a lot.  Even though there are a mind-blowing 12 million people in HCMC, there are something like 18 million that live on the Delta.  We visited a floating market, coconut candy factory, rice paper factory, honey farm, rice noodle factory and a rice factory.  Vietnam had reached the apex of the rice export industry until a drought two years ago.  Now they’ve fallen back to #3 behind Thailand and India.  Regardless, it’s a huge driver of the economy that nearly 95% of the population is somehow involved in.

Honey bees
Honey bees
These guys make good honey
These guys make good honey
Coconut candy factory
Coconut candy factory
The goods
The goods
Samples
Samples
Alcohol fermented with snake - only guys drink this - it's like the Viagra of Vietnam
Alcohol fermented with snake – only guys drink this – it’s like the Viagra of Vietnam
Sometimes they mix it with scorpion too
Sometimes they mix it with scorpion too

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Chicken feet
Chicken feet
Fresh snake for dinner?
Fresh snake for dinner?

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Every variety of egg
Every variety of egg

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Here is the homestay where we spent the night.  Great people.  The food was great too!

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Mekong Delta

Food Whore

Yeah, I’m a food whore.  It’s true.  I’ll readily admit it; I’m not ashamed.  What, like you didn’t already know that?  Look, I don’t think it warrants a confession but I just want to be upfront about it.  Are we still good?  Okay, let’s move on then.

Given my proclivity for culinary adventure, we did a back-of-the-bike street food tour in HCMC.  This idea here is that you get to experience some of the lesser-known food gems around the city with a personal guide while you white-knuckle it (inserted for dramatic effect) on the back of the motorbike.  We were a group of about 20 – rolling deep on the mean streets of Saigon.  The streets were not actually mean.

My guide was Vy (pronounced Vee).  She was a blast and really enjoyed watching Beard as he would just get owned by pretty much everything I ate.  Sucker.

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Here are some of the dishes.

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2 different kinds of pork skewers
2 different kinds of pork skewers

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Part of the street food gang of misfits
Part of the street food gang of misfits
Crab noodle soup
Crab noodle soup

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Crunchwrap supreme
Crunchwrap supreme
Fruit combo
Fruit combo
Ice creams and fruit
Ice creams and fruit

By far the strangest thing I ate – and for that matter, have eaten thus far since beginning my travels – was balut.  I’m not going to show any of the pictures because I don’t want to alienate anyone.  I won’t even get into an explanation of what balut is for those who don’t know.  Even though this is a food tour, I’m not going to spoon-feed you.  You can Google it yourself.  After telling some people I was having lunch with about my experience with balut, a stranger from a couple tables over approached and said thanks to my story, he’d lost his appetite.  Ha!  What a stuffy prick.  That’s what you get for eavesdropping, ace!  Anyway, his comments were noted.  Though I won’t get into details, it wasn’t horrible and tasted like egg and chicken broth.  Also, the Vietnamese believe by eating it your luck is improved.  If you have bad luck, eat balut and you’ll have good luck.  If you already have good luck, eat balut and you’ll have even better luck!  Done and done.  I just bought a lottery ticket.

Here are some other things I ate and Beard called “Daddy.”  Dude got owned.

 

Huynh Hoa - best banh mi in HCMC
Huynh Hoa – best banh mi in HCMC

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Beef noodle soup - different noodles than pho
Beef noodle soup – different noodles than pho
Fried spring roll
Fried spring roll
Fresh spring roll
Fresh spring roll
333 beer
333 beer

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Food Whore

Cu Chi Tunnels

Watch your step!  Every single sidewalk is in disrepair here.  I mean look at this:

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That was all within one block!

Also, look at this.  Possibly the only thing more difficult to unwind than the credit crisis of 2008.

Barf
Barf

We were able to avoid any potential hazards on our 3 block walk to the river and set off for a trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels.

Cu Chi is an area north of HCMC on the Saigon River.  During the Vietnam War, a massive tunnel network was built and used by the Viet Cong.  These tunnels were used as hiding spots and supply and communication routes by the VC. As well, they were effectively insulated from much of the Allied bombings.  This was the base of operations for the VC for the Tet Offensive conducted in 1968.

We took the boat ride up the Saigon River and I’ve never seen water lilies like this before.

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Some of the time you couldn’t even tell you were on water.  As a result, of course the prop got tangled in water lilies and we broke down.

Whoops!
Whoops!

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After a 20-minute repair job during which the boat captain stripped down to his underwear and dove under the boat to free the prop, we were back up and running and on our way.

It was interesting to see Cu Chi and learn about the history (as told by the Viet Cong).  The tunnels were impressive and made both Beard and I claustrophobic.  Soon though, the VC propaganda machine grew tiresome.  When we got into the parts about how smartly designed the VC’s boobytraps were and the various ways each would maim or kill American soldiers, I pretty much shut ‘er down.  Then, oddly, after hearing all about how many people died in and around Cu Chi, guests had the opportunity to shoot AK-47s and other high-powered guns if they wanted to.  No, I think I’m good.

Anyhoo, here are some pictures.

Cashew tree
Cashew tree
Getting in one of the original tunnels
Getting in one of the original tunnels

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It's small in there - like crawling on your belly small.  Oh and there are bats.  Great.
It’s small in there – like crawling on your belly small. Oh and there are bats. Great.
Expanded exit
Expanded exit

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Original tunnel
Original tunnel
Boobytrap display
Boobytrap display

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Expanded tunnels for visitors
Expanded tunnels for visitors

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On the way back to HCMC, the engine overheated as the cooling lines became clogged with water lilies.

Sonofa!
Sonofa!
Cu Chi Tunnels

HCMC

First of all, there was this guy.  An excitable German fellow on the window with the big camera lens who couldn’t stop taking pictures of the wing of the airplane, the seatback pocket, the safety demonstration, the life jacket under the seat, and the flight attendants.  Of course he had to hit the lavatory IMMEDIATELY after the “fasten seatbelt” sign was turned off?  I mean c’mon, you couldn’t have hit the john before we boarded like a normal human?  It’s a short flight, you leaky prick.  Do you have a growing or going problem?  That pisses me right off.

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Oh, and that huge lens? yeah right.  You wish, pal.

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We’re in Vietnam now – landed in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon, and got immediately ripped off by a taxi scam.  Good start.  Good start.  The nice thing is, even though Beard and I got taken like a couple of unassuming tourists (how’d they know?), Vietnam is incredibly inexpensive so it was only a $10 hit.  Could’ve been worse.

We’re using our Dongs now.  Seriously, the VND is the currency here – Vietnamese Dong – a symbol of fertility, virility, and liquidity, .  The denomination increments are done in thousands.  1 USD = roughly 21,000 VND.  It takes a bit to get your head around the exchange conversions.

Wow, I just turned my head to look at something and Beard brushed my collarbone.  I literally jumped out of my shoes and swatted my neck thinking there was something crawling on me.  Beard thinks he’s so funny.

First observations about HCMC – traffic like you’ve never seen in your life where motorbikes outnumber cars, trucks and vans 50:1 and there are no rules (or more accurately – there are, but they are all unwritten and nonsensical), every sidewalk is in disrepair, it is suffocatingly hot and humid, and Beard is getting more confused looks than Bruce Jenner at an Olympics reunion.

Thinking back on the Bangkok traffic situation to where we are now, there is no comparison.  We’ve just entered into an alternate universe of traffic insanity.  This is the most chaotic thing I’ve ever seen. I don’t think these pictures will be able to tell the story, but they can try.

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If I hadn’t been warned before we arrived about what to expect, I don’t know if I would even attempt to cross the street.  The approach here is that you just step out into the street and walk at a steady pace (you can put your hand up in the air if you want to help let people know, “hey, I’d appreciate it if you wouldn’t hit me with your motorbike – thanks!”).  It’s real life Frogger.

Courtesy: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/c/cd/Frogger_game_arcade.png/220px-Frogger_game_arcade.png
Courtesy: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/c/cd/Frogger_game_arcade.png/220px-Frogger_game_arcade.png

What you don’t do is move erratically or try to work your way around the motorbikes.  This will lead to stop-and-go movements that will confuse everyone and you’re more likely to wind up getting nailed.  Instead, the motorbikes will move around you.  It would be similar to a school of fish swimming around a piece of driftwood.  Some will go left of it and some to the right but as long as the wood keeps drifting at the same direction and rate of speed they can plan accordingly and everyone moves around it safely.  Still, it takes getting used to and every intersection that lies ahead induces a subtle pucker.

Another thing that takes getting used to is getting hit up for everything.  (Please don’t give me a hard time for using disjointed phonetics – save it, people.  I’m keeping it real – I’m bloggin’ here!)

“Hey, you want massage?”

“Hey, you want ride on motobike?”

“Hey, you want bia?”

“Hey, wheya you go?”

“Hey, wheya you fum?”

“Heyylow, you want eat my ressraunt?”

“Heyylow, you want shoe shine?” (I have gotten this several times even while wearing flip flops)

This guy cleaned my shoes. – like before I could even say no, he had taken one of my tennis shoes off and was scrubbing it like crazy.  He told me any payment would be good.  I tried to give him 5,000 VND but he said I was very cheap.  I asked how much he wanted and he told me 800,000 VND ($37).  Ummm… I’m not sure how to tell you this, pal but uhhh… Eff no.  Thanks for the shine!  They look great!

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HCMC

Koh Tao

What’s up, you little monsters?  How’s everyone’s bracket looking?  Don’t answer that.  I don’t care.  Mine looks like hell but at least the Hawks won a tourney game for the first time since ’99.  Baby steps. Speaking of sports, go Wild!  But also speaking of sports, go diving!  Although I’m not sure if diving technically qualifies as a sport, for purposes of continuity, I’ll say it does.  So, Koh Tao, Thailand supposedly has some of the best diving in the world. Small island with over 50 dive shops.  It’s pretty big here.

https://www.google.com/maps/search/koh+tao+diving/@10.0936306,99.8316276,15z

Since it’s also relatively inexpensive, we decided to get Open Water PADI certified (up to 60 feet).  OK, I decided.  Beard just came along for the ride.  The first day was spent in the pool and the next two days out in the ocean where we did 4 dives.  Each day filled up with diving and reading and watching videos.  I didn’t have time to do much else other than eat and drink.  Sound familiar?

Here’s where I stayed.

Coral Grand Hotel and Dive Shop
Coral Grand Hotel and Dive Shop

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Some of the dishes I sampled:

Fresh spring rolls with an awesome sweet and sour sauce.
Fresh spring rolls with an awesome sweet and sour sauce.
Chicken cashew nut
Chicken cashew nut – very popular dish in Thailand
Toilet
Toilet
Just kidding.  It's Panang curry.
Just kidding. It’s Panang curry.  I added a beer to the frame for safety’s sake
Red Snapper
Red Snapper with a black pepper and garlic sauce – incredible

Go Hawks.  Next year.

Mike Gessell looks like Butters
Mike Gessell looks like Butters

Anyhoo, on my second night at the Coral Grand, I was sleeping hard like a chief.  Just really tuckered from the day’s events.  Getting a real solid snooze on when I was startled by something.  There are plenty of strange noises on this island but I wasn’t exactly sure what woke me up.  Oh well, I dozed back off and then BAM! woke up again.  This time I thought I felt some pain on my head but I couldn’t be sure.  I laid my head back down and Wow! yep, that was pain.  I shot up and looked at the pillow and to my disgust and dismay I saw some creature staring back at me.  I think it looked like this (maybe).

Beetle Weaponry

It was about the size of a quarter but I couldn’t make out what it was because the room was dark.  I flippin flipped and grabbed another pillow and attempted to swat the fearless beast off the pillow I’d been laying on.  Of course I missed the bug and saw it scurry over the top of the pillow and down mattress into the bed frame.  I slowly walked around the side of the bed and for some reason decided not to turn on the light.  Maybe, subconsciously I didn’t really want to see my attacker.  I lifted up the mattress with one hand and there he was.  Nowhere to run.  Nowhere to hide.  Like an idiot, I just dropped the mattress on top of him thinking I might squish him.  Again I raised the mattress hoping my prayers had been answered.  No such luck; the bloodthirsty bastard was gone.  And I was never so helpless and alone.  I’d been accosted and victimized as I slept.  I couldn’t shake the thought of that creepy crawler still on the loose. Since it was 1:30 in the morning, there was no one at the reception desk.  Nothing I could do, other than make a bed out of a chair and a table and try to sleep with the lights on on the other side of the room with one eye open wondering if another attack was going to come.

No mark, but eff that hurt
No mark, but eff that hurt
My makeshift bed after the attack
My makeshift bed after the attack

I don’t know what it was – maybe some kind of beetle.  I don’t think I was bitten because there was no mark – well except the indelible mark that brazen little monster left on my soul.  Anyway, it got me upgraded to a better room for the rest of my time in Koh Tao. One of the divemasters at Coral Grand was a French guy named Jann.  He saw the CF shirt I was wearing one day and invited me to come with him to Koh Tao CrossFit.  Great WOD.  I’ve never sweated like I did in Koh Tao.  Woof.

Koh Tao CrossFit
Koh Tao CrossFit

Two of the people in my dive group were Charlie (England) and Fleur (Holland).  They met in Africa where they were both doing volunteer work and decided to travel together for a few months.  Great kids (only 20 years old).  I took them out to dinner to celebrate our graduation.

Hammer, Beard, Fleur, waitress and Charlie
Hammer, Beard, Fleur, waitress and Charlie
View from our study hall
View from study hall 
Shuttle boat from shore to the dive boat
Shuttle boat from shore to the dive boat
Most of the dive boats look like this
Most of the dive boats look like this
Fleur and Charlie
Fleur and Charlie

Lars and Stieg were a couple of grade-A flute players from Denmark.  Their diving was so so so so very raw.  I’m quite surprised they both lived to be perfectly honest.  First of all, their English wasn’t great or even good so you were never sure if they were grasping the instructions and concepts.  When put into practice, you were certain they most definitely were not.  Both of them were just complete champions when it came to not paying attention to anything around them, kicking other divers in the face with their fins, finning the hell out of living coral, separating from their dive buddy, you name it.  Not the brightest bulbs, but because of that they were highly entertaining.

Lars and Stieg
Lars and Stieg
Fleur, Charlie, Greg (Divemaster), Hammer, Beard, Stieg, Lars, Alex, with Rasmus (Divemaster in Training) and Anna (Divemaster in Training) in front
Graduating class with instructors: Fleur, Charlie, Greg (Divemaster), Hammer, Beard, Stieg, Lars, Alex, with Rasmus (Divemaster in Training) and Anna (Divemaster in Training) in front

The diving in Koh Tao was incredible.  I’m so glad I did the Advanced Open Water course which allowed me to do two deep dives (100 feet), a wreck dive (former US Navy destroyer that was once donated to the Thai Navy was sunk in 2011 as a dive site, and a night dive.  Each of these dives were amazing in their own right but the highlight was the deep dive at Chumphon Pinnacle.  I don’t have any photos from out dive and though we didn’t see any whale sharks, this will give you an idea of what it was like.  It felt like an IMAX movie.

https://www.google.com/search?q=chumphon+pinnacle+pictures&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=583&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=F-obVfaDM4aJ8QXpuYGIBQ&ved=0CBwQsAQ

Oh, Beard says “what up?”  Says he misses you all and hopes everyone is doing well!

Next: Vietnam

Koh Tao